This picture is taken from the Esplanade outside the outer gates.
The round arch and zig-zag decorations are typical of Norman architechture
Day 8 - Thursday, May 20
After reading our information about Edinburgh, we decided to just see a couple of things, do some shopping, and otherwise have a leisurely day out in the city. Our host did have information on taking the bus into town (although it wasn't quite accurate). We found the ride on the top of the double decker bus to be quite a thrill, especially if you sit in the front seat. The bus dropped us off on Princes Street, just down the hill from the castle. Edinburgh Castle towers over the city atop a great outcropping of volcanic rock - a most impressive sight. However, the castle wasn't due to open for another 45 minutes so we did some shopping on our way up the hill.
Edinburgh is a great town for shopping. Susan really wanted to get a kilt/skirt made from the Johnstone tartan. Unfortunately we found that all the shops in town tended to carry just a handful of different patterns. If you want a particular tartan, you have to have it custom-made (for five times the price) unless you're lucky enough to find the one you want off the rack. We did, however, find a Johnstone scarf.
We got to the castle a few minutes before opening and had a pleasant
conversation with some fellow Americans waiting in the short line (I gave
them a lesson on how to drive in a round about). Just inside the
gate, we checked out the gift shop (as always) and used the toilets (by
the way, Edinburgh Castle and the Tower of London tied for the best public
toilet award). We decided to skip the guided tour since our Michelin
Guide Book had very detailed descriptions. The Castle is a huge complex
of walls and gates built over many centuries. Working our way up
to the top, we reached St. Margaret's Chapel. This tiny Norman style
chapel is supposedly the oldest structure in the city. It was quite
moving, despite its small size.
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This picture is taken from the Esplanade outside the outer gates. |
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The round arch and zig-zag decorations are typical of Norman architechture |
From there we went to the main courtyard in the center of the castle
and encountered a large crowd. A guard informed us that they were
clearing the way for a procession of VIP's attending the service for the
rededication of the Scottish National War Memorial. Included in the
procession was the Lord Lyon, who presides over the court that rules on
matters of Scottish heraldry. Many of those in the procession were
wearing elaborate costumes. The guard referred to them as their "Alice
in Wonderland Clothes".
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We also saw these guys in their "Alice in Wonderland Clothes" on TV during the opening of the new Scottish Parliment, July 1, 1999. |
After watching the procession, we went to see the Scottish Crown Jewels.
The Honours of Scotland (a crown, sword, and sceptre) escaped destruction
in the revolution and thus are much older than the crown jewels of England.
Also on display is the Stone of Scone, which was used to crown the kings
of Scotland for 400 years, until Edward II took it to England in 1296.
Since then
it has been used for coronations at Westminster Abbey. It wasn't
returned to Scotland until 1996.
We toured the rest of the castle, seeing the great hall, the former royal palace, and the 15th century siege cannon. We then left the castle and walked down the royal mile through the old part of town. Edinburgh is much more compact than I had expected. It was really quite easy to get around on foot, despite the hills. On a whim, we stopped in to see the new Scottish Parliament Visitors Center. As it turns out, there wasn't much to see as the gift shop and displays were still under construction, but we did browse through their information pamphlets. Nevertheless, it was obvious from their efforts that there was a lot of pride in their new parliament.
We shopped our way down to St. Giles Cathedral, the main church of the old city. In the square outside the church there was a kilted piper. Later on we saw a different one. They seemed to take turns playing for the tourists. St. Giles is quite a bit different from other gothic churches we had seen, due to the Scottish architecture and the influence of the Scottish reformation. We walked in just in time to hear an organ recital. We were surprised how often we just happen to run into special events such as this. In the church we saw the ornate Thistle Chapel with beautifully carved wooden stalls. One had an angel playing bagpipes. Also on display was a copy of the Covenant that got so many people in trouble.
At this point we walked wandered south, eventually ending up Greyfriars Church. This historic church is where the National Covenant was signed. However it is most known for Bobby, the Skye terrier who faithfully stood watch over his master grave for 10 years. There's a statue of the dog out by the street and even a Greyfriar's Bobby gift shop. Because the weather was so beautiful (warm and sunny), we decided to ride the bus out to the Royal Botanic Gardens. The gardens were beautiful. Not only did we have a good time, it seemed most of the people of Edinburgh were out enjoying the unusually nice weather. We had fun watching children playing on the lawns. The gardens are particularly well known for their Rhododendrons and Azaleas, which were in full bloom.
After a relaxing couple of hours at the gardens, we took the bus back
downtown and did some last minute shopping. We then walked down the
hill back to Princes Street. Princes street divides the old part
of the city, on the castle hill, from the New Town, a planned Georgian
city. On the way down we walked by the National Gallery of Scotland.
We decide to skip the art galleries since that is something we can see
close to home. However we did notice that on the outside, this has
to be the ugliest building in Britain. We also discussed the Scott
Monument - a very ornate tower on Princes Street. Like many of the
buildings in Edinburgh, it was blackened from age. We were surprised
to see that it's recent renovation apparently did not include a good cleaning.
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The ugly art galery is in the bottom center. The black obilisk behind the art gallery is the Scott Monument. |
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At this point, we weren't sure what to do. It was a little late for tea, but too early for supper. There was no point going back to the hotel as there was nothing much to do there, but many of the stores were closing. So we just wandered up Princes Street without any real plan. We had tea in a tea room that was still open. While discussing our dinner options, we noticed the woman at the next table had a Hard Rock Cafe bag. We asked where this was and wandered over in that direction. On the way we stopped at a great book store. Susan shopped for books and I research more eating and drinking options.
We went to the Hard Rock cafe, not only for dinner, but also to get
a Hard Rock Cafe (Edinburgh) tee shirt for our daughter. After dinner
we headed to a brew pub I had read about at the book store and Susan and
I shared a pint of porter/stout. Back at Princes Street, while waiting
for the bus, we reflected on how much we had enjoyed Edinburgh. We
also observed that this may be among the most scenic bus stops in all of
Britain. The castle, well lit by the setting sun towered in full
profile overhead. It was hard not to just stand and stare.
Back at the hotel, we packed up for tomorrow's trip to St. Andrews.
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